Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Goodbye Nakusp..Hello Victoria


I rolled away from Nakusp with a good feeling about the upcoming trip.  I talked to a number of folks who have completed their trips to South America, and certainly all of them want to go back.  I had a conversation with a fellow who was leaving right after the HU rally, and I could relate to his apprehension and misgivings about all that is undone, in terms of planning.

I met some very interesting people,and my conversations with a couple were gratifying and significant, in terms of travel and meeting people and engaging them in conversation and discussions about the realities of travel, as well as the essence of why we pack up our gear and our lives and go off in all directions.

Someone mentioned that the HU gathering was cultlike, and in a sense the people who ride and travel are of a different mindset than others, in that the focus is on the open road, and the opportunities  and challenges that are inherent in this lifestyle.


I had to take a picture of this Nakusp household.  The garden was beautiful, and the wooden structure evoked a very good feeling. I hope that the house is occupied by a loving family, and that the positive vibes that the house emanates carries through to the family as well.


The Horizons Unlimited gathering is all about sharing and learning from others' travels.   Grant Johnson, the founder of the website, is demonstrating the correct way to change tires and helping us to make the process as painless as possible.  I am afraid that I could not see as much as I would have liked, and I am almost certain that down the road, I will regret  my lack of knowledge around tire changes and  fixing flats....
There were well over 200 riders attending this event, and this collection of rides is but a small portion of the bikes attending.



This was the new 2013 BMW 800GS.



A very likeable fellow from Nanaimo conducts a workshop on what to carry on your bike, in terms of extra tools, spares, and fixits.  This was  a very helpful demonstration.



This tool was built by Grant Johnson to help with the tire removal part of the flat tire process.  The notches hook into the spokes and assist with the leverage aspect of spooning the tires.



This young fellow from Seattle had just ridden to Alaska and back with his Dad.  We had some interesting conversations, and he helped me download some free maps for my Garmin system.  I suspect that I will be running into him again, as he is planning on heading for South America this fall as well.  His KLR is tricked out and ready to go, and he has a positive attitude and lots of youthful energy.

I was one of the first to get on the road from Nakusp, and caught the 8:00 AM Facquier ferry.  I decided to roll into Edgewood, to see if I could find any of my brain cells that I had left there about 45 years ago during a crazy hippy party.  I did not find any remanents of those said cells, nor did I find any memory traces of that farm, so perhaps that wild weekend was a figment of anothers' imagination...although I do remember owning a white Commer Van and filling it full of hippies one summer night.....



Edgewood looks very respectful and the coffee at the corner store was welcome and strong.   I had a long conversation with a dude who was pushing a camper van.  He complained that the women in his retirement community were only after him for sex, and that he was looking for a travelling companion who enjoyed travelling.  I comimserated with him and suggested that he could either move, or get a motorcycle.  I didn't have any solution to his sex problem, and wondered if there was an extra suite at his closed community.  They say that guys never talk about their feelings, but I think that it is a matter that strangers are more apt to share their lives, with the understanding that bikes that pass in the night will not spill the beans, so to speak.  The conversation was possibly  more meaningful to both of us than the acid-filled weekend of 45 years ago.

Because of my short term fantasy filled love affair with the waitress at the restaurant in Cherryville, I had to stop there for breakfast on the way through.  She was not there, and was probably sunbathing nude on her boat in the middle of her lake, but I managed to stay and have another great breakfast.  The poor girl who was taking her place was run off her feet with Sunday golfers, and I appreciated her efforts to keep me tanked up with coffee.


As it is my usual mind set when I ride in the Okanagan, I was experiencing lots of nostalgia on my ride out of Nakusp.  Dad and I had hunted up in this area many times, and I clearly remember unloading 14 rounds out of my 10 shot .303 in an attempt to bring down a whole deer herd on Eureka mountain.  We would leave Vernon at 4:00 AM in order to get those early morning  bucks.  Dad and his hunting buddy, Mr. G, would drag me along and I saw a lot of great country before the loggers hit the mountains and hills of the Monashee.   I decided that I would take the back road to Armstrong to pick up my gear, and I roade through Trinity Valley.  It was an eye opener for me to see the number of developed ranches and stump farms where three had only been bush and dirt roads 30 years ago.  Again, I remember driving through this road with my little daughter in a papoose style child carrier, and I am guessing that was 39 years ago.  Sigh....

I arrived at Armstrong and my neice and her family were getting organized for a family outing on the river, probably the last one of the summer.  A baby  neice arrived from Australia, and it was clear that she was  a red head, through and through.





I reluctantly headed west towards my Son and daughter-in-laws' place in Chilliwack. I stopped for gas in Falkland, and talked to the owner of this cool chopper.  He had purchased it new in 1976, and was still working on it.  What a beauty...

I decided that it was time to face old demons, and three years ago I had started out to ride the Douglas Lake Ranch.  I ended up pinning my foot under my pannier, twisting my foot badly, and essentially ruining what remained of a summer ride.  I ended up scurring to my friend Pats' place in Victoria, complete with a twisted and fat foot.  I needed to confront that ditch, and overcome any remanents of lacking confidence regarding dirt and gravel roads.  I turned up the Douglas Lake Ranch road, and climbed up onto the flats.
Soon as I was up on the plateau, I saw the old farmhouse where I had stopped three years before to take a picture of the notched construction.  I also saw the cross ditch that I had failed to navigate, too.





I said goodbye to the old house and those memories of a twisted foot, lots of ice, and a crappy Merritt motel room.  I was grateful that I had a friend who had a couch, had nursing experience, and did not fault me for riding motorcycles and harming my body occassionly.

I was a nice ride throught the remainder of the Douglas Lake Ranch, and I saw no sign of the muskeg which had plagued a friend of mine on his ride through the ranch two years ago.  Everything was dry and dusty and I was at the Merrit turnoff before I knew it.





I spent a quiet night with my son and his wife at their place in Chilliwack. They are in the throes of moving to Alberta.  This province is eating all of my children. While I understand that they need to go where the work is, I am feeling a deep sense of separation and loss as all of my children are now based in Flatberta.  I hope that they find a place where the old man is able to come and visit occassionally.  As soon as Blondie has new shoes, an oil change, and is readied for the next stage of travel, I am heading back to Chilliwack to help move their belongings to Edmonton.

I am currently sitting in Victoria while Blondie has a once over.  Gwyn, the author and moto mechanic is working on her, and I am very confident that all systems will be healthy before  I get on the road again.  I just finished a conversation with a 76 year old gentleman who has been riding since he was a kid.  Our conversation was not about his racing bikes as a kid, or about his career as a metal worker, but mainly about his formative years in occupied Holland during the Second World War.

He told me about his family secreting away three Jews in their attic for three years unbeknowest to the Nazis, and he talked about  what it was like to be sprayed with machine gun fire as he gathered firewood in the  forests as a youngster.  He spoke about a city where the family home was built in 1300, and how the basements of the homes in the city was interconnected by catacombs, and how he used to catch rats in the warrens of the city.  I could tell that as he described his trip "home" five years ago that the visit was cathartic and healing for him.  I can only imagine the terrors that war created for that generation.

Well, it turns out that Blondie will need some new wheel bearings, and possibly a new battery as well as cables, so I have made an appointment for next week, after I return from Edmonton.  It is hard work, taking a holiday....

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Horizons Unlimited unravelled...

For the past couple of days I have been camped with two hundred other moto enthusiasts in the Municipal campgrounds of Nakusp, B.C.

The Western Canada meeting of Horizons Unlimited is meeting this weekend, and the turnout is phenominal and the participation and enthusiasm about moto travel is catching.  Right now, as I write, we are skyping with the local organizers, who are currently in Lake Bakail, in eastern Russia, I think.  They are describing to the audience about their travels and experiences as they have been travelling in Eastern Europe for the past month.  It is interesting to see the increase in the use of technology by the travellers as trips are presented and planned.

I attended a presentation this afernoon by an former pilot who discussed the ins and outs of mapping software and GPS systems.  He identifed some great sites where open source software is available, and i was joined with a young fellow from Seattle who helped me download maps of Mexico and Guatemala.  This session was extremely useful and interesting.

Yesterday, a family from Calgary presented  on their year long trip to South America and back, and their stories were interesting in that in addition to their discussions of the their moto routes, they discussed the events and activities which they attended as they travelled. It was interesting to see the perspective of the 10 year old son, who fully participated in the presentation, and provided an interesting insight into the trip.

I have met some very interesting people at this gathering.  One person from Seattle has just completed a trip down east Africa and left his bike in Johannesburg.  He is planning on heading back very soon to continue his trip up to Ethiopia and beyond.  He has a very interesting perspective on travel and the role of the moto traveller.  He is travelling on  a F800GS, and I have had some very useful discussions about the pros and cons of this bike.  I have had some significant help with computer issues from a young man from Seattle who is coming down from Alaska, and as soon as he sells his truck and motorcycle will be heading South as well.  It is very refreshing to attend these kinds of meetings and discuss motorcycle travel with some many different folks.  This young man has an incredibly refreshing take on life, and I am very impressed by his views and outlook on life   We talked about father and son travel, and he too has travelled with his Dad up to Alaska.  Out discussion brought out some of my favourite feelings about travelling with my own Sons.


Right now, I am watching a trip presentation by two old dudes and the title is "Humbled by South America"  Many of their pictures showed roads that remind me of the Nickleplate Road near Hedley.  The dudes are in their late 60's and spent over two months in South America.   Their blog is:  http://davejimandtheincas.blogspot.ca/  and I am recommending that it be read as a precusssor to my eventual travels down south.

The final presenter of the conference is a young guy from Canmore, Jeremy Kroeker, and he has published a book entitled "Motorcycle Therapy".  I am looking forward to hearing about his journey to Central America.  His description can be found at:  http://www.motorcycletherapy.com/





I have a soft spot in my heart for yellow bikes and lots of stuff...


This side car took two Calgarians safe and secure on their ride to South America  and back....





There were two TransAlps here, and each of them were on a Round the World trip,as their stickers demonstrate.   One was for sale.  I have always admired the Trans Alp, and the brand was only available in Canada for two years.   I think everyone should have at least three bikes in their stable.






My friend Dave W. from the North Island, who has let many North Island rides over the years, came to Nakusp via the Chilcotin.



A bike identical to mine, which is ownd by a Calgary fellow, has a blown stator. Fortunately his wife has an identical bike, and they will share a battery on their long ride back to Calgary.

 This bike is out of 100 mile and the fellow is familiar to a lot of BC riders

 This bike was on the BC Big Trailie last year, and I understand that he will be attending again in a couple of weeks.


I heard a very informative and interesting presentation on Baja.





A new Triumph





 Brand new BMW 700 cc, probably the first in Western Canada



Not all orange bikes are KTMs: a fancy Triumph








This bike is owned by an older Australian couple who have been on the road for 15 years.


 A young Sri Lankan man presented on his travels. He has been on the road for two years.  His photography was incredible, and he truly had a unique story to tell.